Daily Archives: February 18, 2014

plimoth Takes Denver Dining into the Embarrassment of Riches Category

plimoth is in an old pharmacy space in a run-down strip in North City Park.
We may have driven right past without a second thought were we not paying attention.
The strip itself is not much to look at, but when you approach plimoth’s space, you quickly come to understand this is something special.
With its original hexagon-tiled floor, semi-open kitchen, close-but-not-too-close tables, it feels warm and welcoming.
It’s charming at first sight, and gives the impression the food and beverage experience will be as well.
First things first.
The wine.
I have a program that never fails me – I narrow down my by-the-glass choices to 2 that look good and ask for tastes of each.
There’s always a clear winner.
But, in this case, that program did fail me; I wasn’t a fan of either.
I had my eye on a 3rd – the Ramsay Pinot Noir – and when I tasted its perfect weight, sweetness and bit of spice, was reminded how important it is never to settle in wine [and in life].
My friend liked it too, so what the hell, we ordered a bottle.
It’s a joyous experience to have a bottle opened tableside just for you and your dining companion[s].
It sets a certain tone of bonhomie and seems to put life in perspective somehow.
I always like to see generosity in the places I dine, which is a key element to hospitality.
plimoth hasn’t overlooked this.
They make their own in-house waffle chips, which were brought to the table.
We then officially started with the dish that’s all the rage among food people in Denver at the moment – their cauliflower gratinee – served in a mini cast iron skillet, which screamed charm.
Next, we had the salmon tart – a small round of browned crust, filled with savory salmon and onion, sided with fresh field greens.
We decided to order 2 entrees to share – cracklin chicken [their words] with housemade spaetzle and festival squash [similar to delicata; equally delicious] with white bean ragout and broccolini.
Perhaps it was the cold weather outside, and the painful emotional weather my friend was experiencing at the moment, but these dishes were the definition of comfort – and the feeling that everything was going to be ok.
We took the same approach to dessert – 2 to share – a chocolate pot de crème and boozy cherry/apple clafoutis with crème fraiche ice cream.
On the menu, they listed the clafoutis as having ‘lots of caramel’.
I loved the approachable, untechnical way this was communicated.
It’s hard to say no to lots of caramel in whatever iteration.
The pot de crème was deep and rich chocolate love, topped with whipped cream.
The clafoutis was a large ramekin of coziness and glee.
My only complaint was the ice cream was more icy than creamy.
To say we’re spoiled in Denver, by the number of seriously high quality restaurants, is a true understatement.
plimoth has taken us into the embarrassment of riches category.