Restaurant Kevin Taylor, in the chic Hotel Teatro, is a feast for the senses. The stunning aesthetics in the space design, and on the plate, are no less than theater. Our group was treated to tastes ranging from lamb and lobster to salmon and bison, so I got to experience a wide and exciting range.
Foie Gras Mousse
Amaretti socca cracker, turnip marmalade, miso gastrique
This was a fun beginning. The cracker was more the vehicle, than anything, but I can appreciate the effort that went into making an amaretti cracker. I can imagine how great these would be alone, to dip into wine before dinner. Foie gras, on any vehicle, is a luxury and speaks for itself.
Lamb & Eucalyptus Soup
Lime, pine nuts, EVOO
Some people like sourness in their food, and sour beers have become a hit with many of our Colorado craft brewers, but I’m not a fan of sourness [in food, beer or life!]. The prevailing taste here was that. Still, I was thrilled to see eucalyptus as an ingredient. I find that choice inspiring and inventive.
Endive, mustard seed, blood orange, basil horseradish
This was the standout. A crispy, fresh, pliable leaf of endive, filled to the brim with lobster tartare. It was clean and fresh, and with the spice of both the horseradish and mustard seed, made for a beautiful bite of food. One of my favorites from all the bites I’ve had this year so far.
Scottish Salmon Rillettes
Sweet potato cake, buckwheat granola, apple, earl grey compote
This was also a fun dish. The potato cake was crispy, and the blend of flavors, perfect. I like the idea of a tea compote, though it didn’t have that strong, distinctive taste of Earl Grey tea. Perhaps the flavor mellows as you cook it, which I’m grateful for, since I find it too strong for my taste. It’s a polarizing flavor – like cilantro or horseradish – you either love or don’t. The apple was a bright surprise, and I love when something cooked is paired with something fresh like that.
Braised Bison Short Rib
Cumin, olive beet radish, prune puree
Most of us don’t think of prunes as elevating anything, much less braised bison, but the prune puree here was the highlight of this dish and definitely took it over the top. The bison itself was tender enough to not need a knife. It could have done without the olive beet radish; it wasn’t so much a distraction, as it was unnecessary.
Peanut butter powder, burnt caramel, nougat
This bite of delight came enrobed in chocolate, with more of a mousse center, than a nougat. The flavors were completely reminiscent of the traditional Snickers bar and I can see why this is their top selling dessert.
All of the food was accompanied by thoughtful drinks: gin and limoncello, bloody mary, whiskey and cucumber, rye whiskey and root beer and a chocolate martini with godiva liquer. Each pairing was well chosen, though the whiskeys I felt too strong to have with food. I see them more as a pre or after dinner drink, but I know many people who strongly feel otherwise. Wine is always my go to with this kind of upscale food. Still, it was fun to be treated to new tastes in drinks I otherwise wouldn’t have chosen for myself.
There’s a reason Restaurant Kevin Taylor has been awarded the AAA Four Diamond Award for 8 consecutive years.
It’s a true gem [pardon the pun] and theater you get to eat.